Bowhunting Equipment

Accurate Archery


A 350 grain (gr) arrow weighs only 22.75 grams (g). A bow that shoots very fast is often described as "shooting flat". A faster arrow travels with less perceptible arc, so it is described as shooting "flat". A faster arrow won't necessarily penetrate better, but it will make it to the target more quickly. A typical human hair is about .004"-.006" in diameter. Again, there is some disagreement on this issue, and we'll hammer out the pro's and con's in Chapter 5. Almost all new compound bows are now this style. An arrow that is trimmed 1/2-1" beyond the arrow rest will work quite well in a center-shot cutaway riser bow. And be advised that your state's rules and regulations may change from year to year. And depending upon your particular bow setup, the IBO and AMO recommendations may or may not be the same. And if you want to make your bow shoot even close to it's advertised IBO speed, you have to setup the bow to shoot at or near 5 gr/p/p. And in fact, the same manufacturers who once attacked the carbon arrow concept NOW make their own carbon arrow shafts to sell. And once an arrow is cut too short, it's cut too short for life. And regardless of what kind of riser you have, if you intend to shoot specialty small game hunting tips (Judo Points, Snaro's, Condor Tips, etc.) which are unusually wide, you will definitely need arrows that are slightly longer than the bow's draw length. And some people follow it; others ignore it. And this seems to be a characteristic that many shooters seek in a bowhunting or 3D rig. And while these antiquated restrictions may not exactly warrant an uprising, they are a part of each state's effort to ensure ethical bowhunting practices. And with a Muzzy Zero Effect, as much as 3-4" less than the bow's draw length. Another authority in the archery industry, the Archery Trade Association (formerly the AMO), also publishes an arrow weight recommendation chart called the AMO Minimum Arrow Weight Chart . Arrow weight should never be less than 5X the bow's draw weight. As a result, each year brings a new bumper-crop of even lighter arrow shafts, better string materials, more efficient bow designs, friction-reducing components, etc. As a sportsman, it's your responsibility to know the law and be sure your equipment is in compliance from season to season. As ridiculous as that sounds, several manufacturers pull this little fast one on us. Attempting to trim your new carbon arrows with your hacksaw or your plumber's tubing cutter will result in splintered fibers and a weakened arrow shaft. Because center-shot cutaway risers can shoot arrows that are LESS than the bow's adjusted draw length (so they can rest inside the arrow shelf). Bows without a center-shot cutaway riser generally cannot (arrows must "hang-over"). But anyone who does this is just asking for trouble. But be advised, spending $100+ on a set of ultra-straight .001" arrows will not likely transform you into Randy Ulmer. But most manufacturers also offer a mid-grade shaft which will have an advertised straightness of around .003", and finally a "Pro" shaft that will claim .001" or less. But most shooters want to get as much snap as possible out of their high performance compound bows, so keeping an eye on excess arrow weight is a big consideration. But since archers measure in grains, let's just try to just forget about grams for now. But some type of modern arrow rests still function much like an overdraw - locating the rest position closer to the shooter. But the fact is, lighter arrows fly faster with less loss of trajectory. But the main idea is, lighter arrows go faster - sometimes dramatically faster. But ultimately, the position of your arrow rest determines the minimum arrow length for a modern center-shot cutaway bow. But with all that said, if your bow has such a notation for heavier arrows, we suggest you contact the manufacturer to question the warranty implications before shooting arrows lighter than the official factory recommendation. Carbon arrows generally do not retain this kind of "memory" after being stressed. Check the literature that came with your bow to find which standard you should follow. Depending on their length, type, tip weight, fletching options, etc., arrows can dramatically vary in weight. Even a center-shot cutaway bow doesn't have sufficient clearance to draw that type of tip beyond the outer edge of the riser. For some bowhunters and 3D shooters, this is a great benefit. For the purposes of close-quarters treestand hunting, most standard-grade shafts are more than adequate. For those of you looking to bulk-up your carbon arrows to gain a little KE (more on this later too), a little more arrow length may be a good thing. For your personal safety, and the longevity of your bow, we most strongly recommend you follow the IBO or AMO Standard regarding minimum arrow weight. Grains (gr) and grams (g) are totally different units of measure. How can this 70# bow ever shoot close to it's 300 fps IBO Speed if the manufacturer clearly marks the bow to require a minimum 420 grain arrow? However, before you select this option, you should double-check your measurements for accuracy. However, bowhunters usually choose arrow weights between 5 and 9 grains per pound. However, full-length arrows, still uncut and without inserts installed, can be returned. However, it should be noted that most arrow rests can be mounted and adjusted in different positions. However, when you order custom arrows from Hunter's Friend, your arrow set will arrive already weighed and certified by one of our professional arrow builders. However, with the increasing popularity of lightweight carbon arrow shafts, overdraws aren't really necessary any more, and are rarely used on modern hunting rigs. If that extra advantage yields a few more points on the 3D range, or helps you to land the shot of a lifetime - then it's money well spent. If you shoot an excessively long arrow, not only will the excess shaft weight result in a heavier and slower flying arrow, but the added length may necessitate changing to an even heavier/stiffer arrow spine. If you will like to have the ability to accurately weigh your own arrows without the need for conversion tables and a calculator, you can purchase an archer's scale that's specifically calibrated in grains. If your accuracy isn't as spectacular as you will like, it's most likely the result of tuning/clearance or shooting-form issues, rather than arrow straightness. In fact, many modern compound shooters trim their arrows to the minimum length - just beyond the arrow rest. In many instances, the proper arrow length for your bow may be considerably less than the measured draw length of the bow. In this case, once your arrows arrive, you'll just need to screw in your tips and then you're all ready to shoot. In this case, we recommend you order arrows 1/2-1" longer than the bow's actual adjusted draw length. It certainly doesn't hurt to get the straightest arrow you can afford. It's always safer to measure twice and cut once, as once your arrows are trimmed to the length you specify, they cannot be returned for an exchange or refund . It's like putting your car in neutral and flooring the gas pedal. Later on in this guide we'll use an online arrow weight calculator to build a simulated set of arrows, so you can make sure that your arrows will be the appropriate weight for your bow before you actually order them. Like in many industries, archery manufacturers are under constant pressure to make things go faster. Metal inserts are often installed with a "hot-melt" type glue to allow fine tuning of some style broadheads. Metal inserts will still be included (but uninstalled) with full-length arrow orders. Most raw arrow shafts are deliberately made too long (usually 32-24") so that they can be trimmed to length to suit your particular bow. Most standard-grade carbon arrows have a straightness of around .006". Nonetheless, arrow straightness is one variable you can tip in your favor for a few extra bucks. Of course, as we soon learned, all that corporate blathering was a distortion of the truth - and today carbon arrows continue to command an increasingly dominant share of the hunting arrow market. Of course, most pro shooters don't have to pay for their own arrows. Of course, we're not suggesting that arrow straightness is an insignificant attribute, it's just that most archers don't have enough shooting skill to differentiate between them. Once your draw length is set perfectly and your arrow rest is mounted in it's permanent position, you can simply draw back an arrow and have someone else use a magic marker to mark the shaft where it actually sits on the arrow rest at full draw. Pro-level shooters often report the opposite, and choose the straightest arrow they can find for competition. Remember our earlier discussion where we learned " If you drew back a 29" arrow, and the insert of the arrow lined-up with the front edge of the bow's riser, the bow is set for approximately 29" draw length "? Several states still have hunting laws that reflect the early misconceptions about using lightweight carbon arrows for big game hunting. Shooting an underweight arrow has a similar effect as dry-firing your bow. Since a center-shot cutaway riser allows clearance for common broadheads to be drawn back beyond the outer edge of the riser, you can shoot a considerably shorter arrow. Since the arrow rides along close to the riser, there isn't enough room to draw back a broadhead over the arrow shelf such that one of the blades doesn't snag on the edge of the riser as you're coming to full draw. So a 60# bow should shoot no less than a 300 (5 x 60) grain arrow. So after a few months of use, your aluminum arrow set may contain a few arrows that are ±.003", a few at ±.012", and a few at ±.025". So choosing the best arrow in the line-up isn't really such a hard choice to make for these shooters. So even a basic carbon shaft of .006" straightness is quite good, and straighter than you can possibly perceive without specialized equipment. So if we rely on this conventional wisdom, a 30" draw bow will always shoot a 30+" arrow. So if you have an older bow without the benefit of a center-shot cutaway riser, choosing your arrow length is easy. So if you want your bow to shoot "flat", lightweight arrows are going to be a must. So if you're the "handy" type, you may wish to order arrows full-length and trim your own. So theoretically, shooting good straight arrows can increase your �effective shooting� distance and provide better hits on the marginal shots. So we strongly suggest you check your state regulations before ordering your hunting arrows, and respect your state's rules and regulations. So we'll start with the big one - riser type (the riser is the "handle" portion of the bow). So your carbon arrow set stays much more straight and uniform - even with heavy use. Some archers even joke that there are only two states of a carbon arrow: straight or broken , but never bent . Some manufacturers ask you follow one standard, some the other. Some years ago, as traditional magnesium molded risers gave way to the production of CNC machined aluminum, we were blessed by the welcome innovation of the center-shot cutaway riser (Figure A) . The "flat" part is a reference to the natural rainbow-shaped parabolic flight-path that all arrows invariably take. The actual center-shot of the bow is very close to (if not right against) the edge of the riser. The AMO chart is a bit more complex and takes more variables into account (brace height, bow efficiency, cam design, draw length, etc.), but it is less widely used. The bow needs the resistance of the arrow just as the engine needs the resistance of the car's drive train. The center-shot cutaway riser has a much wider arrow shelf, and the center section of the riser is shifted well to the side. The grain is a British system unit - based on the weight of a grain of barley. The length of your arrow is a factor in determining the proper stiffness, or spine , for your perfect arrow. The longer your arrow is, the more limber it will act when shot. The most common method is to trim the arrows so that 1/2" to 1" sticks out beyond the rest. The shorter an arrow is, the lighter it will be and the faster it will fly. The shorter your arrow is, the more stiff it will act when shot. The straighter the arrow, the more expensive they will typically be. The vast majority of serious compound bow failures are not caused by manufacturer defects, but rather by dry-firing the bow or shooting dramatically underweight arrows. The weight of an arrow is customarily measured in GRAINS. There is no added charge for trimming and inserting your arrows, but here are a few things to consider before you decide. There's even a device known as an overdraw , that's specifically designed to relocate and reposition the arrow rest rearward - just so a shorter arrow can be used. These ad campaigns claimed carbon arrows were dangerous, they will splinter and break, they were inaccurate, willn't penetrate well, they will ruin your meat, they can cut your hands during field dressing, etc. These basic shafts are usually called "Hunters", and for good reason. They generate a tremendous amount of energy and should be treated with the same respect you will give any dangerous weapon. This allows the true center-shot of the bow (where your arrow rest should line up left and right) to be spaced far enough away from the riser's edge as to allow feathers and vanes to easily pass by the inside edge without any contact with the bow. This keeps them just within the rules while providing the fastest possible arrow speeds. This kind of manufacturer recommendation is kind of a marketing paradox. This type of riser typically uses a flipper/plunger style rest, where a cutaway riser generally cannot. Though an aluminum shaft may BEGIN with a similar ±.003" straightness, it's straightness quickly deteriorates through normal use and handling. Times have changed, and the traditional thinking may or may not apply to your particular bow rig. Trimming the arrow shaft anywhere 1/2" (or more) forward of that position is acceptable. We realize static spine and dynamic spine aren't the same thing. We recommend you not trim arrows to the very bare minimum, as over time your string may stretch a little, letting your draw length out a tad, and leaving you with arrows that are too short. We'll cover this issue in more detail in the next section, but you should be aware that shooting an extra long arrow often results in a double-whammy regarding arrow weight. We'll discuss the issue of arrow weight vs. What they're saying is, "This bow can shoot 300 fps with a 350 grain arrow.....but YOU aren't allowed to make it shoot that fast". When fired from a sophisticated shooting machine, the difference becomes more evident, as the straighter arrows fly and group measurably better, particularly at longer distances and when shooting broadheads. While a carbon arrow's advertised specs may be no straighter than a typical aluminum shaft, carbon arrows resist distorting and "bending out of shape" much better than aluminum arrows. While that's not entirely accurate, it does help to illustrate the point. With a standard TM Hunter style rest, the proper arrow length is usually 1-2" less than the bow's draw length. With a Whisker Biscuit rest, usually 2-3" less than the draw length. Without sufficient arrow weight, the string and limbs of your compound bow move too quickly and violently. You may choose to receive your arrows UNCUT (full-length) OR you may receive your arrows already trimmed to length and inserted.